Saturday, June 25, 2016

Willmore Wilderness Park: Berland Range


As a summer resident of Northern Alberta, I’ve recently been exploring some new and exciting other-than-rock-climbing hobbies…

One thing I wanted to do was climb a mountain. Well, when the opportunity arose to climb five, there was nothing I could say but “Yes, please!”

I am very lucky to work with a bunch of creative, talented, funny, and adventurous people at ABMI. One of these people, Liam Harrap, is an experienced man of the mountains, and he had a trip in mind in the Willmore Wilderness Park north of Jasper NP. His eye was on the Berland Range, a less traveled suite of peaks that would involve a bit of improvisation. With no trip reports or online blogs and very little information, the tone of the trip was set. A break from work between June 5 and 8 offered the perfect timing, so Jesse, Jazmine, Liam and I loaded in to the car and headed west for our 4-day, 3-night adventure. Meet our team:

Liam Harrap
Jesse Archer
Jazmine Lowther
Our happy group at the trailhead, about to set out! Photo credit: Jesse Archer

We started our trip at Rock Lake and headed up the main trail until we could follow Carson Creek to a pass before the mountains. We then spent two days in the mountains, eventually retreating via Seep Creek until we met back up with the Wild Hay River. 

Our first day was an easy 10km hike to camp and our last day was a similar trek back to the car in the morning. We covered the most substantial ground on days 2 and 3, when we summited our five mountains…
 
Our route on days 2 and 3

First Peak: Mount De Wind 2453m

Liam coming up the end of the ridge towards Mount De Wind
Mount De Wind (on the left above the black streaks) viewed from the approach to Mount Hunter

Second Peak: Mount Harvey 2453m

Liam leading the way toward the summit of Mount Harvey
Mount Harvey summit toes!
We camped at the base of Mount Harvey on our second night

Third Peak: Mount Hunter 2607m

Mount Hunter as viewed from Mount Harvey
Final trek to the tippy top of Mount Hunter. Liam awaits us on the summit.
Happy summitters, bellies full of summit treats!
Mount Robson in the distance. We figured the people on Mount Robson must have surely been looking our way saying "Hey! Isn't that Mount Hunter??" ;) Photo credit: Jazmine Lowther

Fourth Peak: Zebra Mountain 2558m

Zebra Mountain, viewed from the descent off Mount Hunter
Mountaintop haircuts and register haikus
"jumping" photo!

Fifth Peak: Mount Bazelgette 2454m

Final traverses towards Mount Bazelgette
Crazy uplifted shaley limestone stuff
Ah! The final summit.

Overall, the alpine terrain was more rugged than I had expected, with plenty of route finding and tricky limestone choss traverses. It was easy to appreciate the ease and grace with which Liam maneuvered the ridges and led us up the mountain tops. His experience is evident and it was wonderful to be on the trip with such a knowledgeable friend. He is fast too! Spirit animal = mountain goat? Jesse and Jazmine both have substantially more hours clocked in the mountains than I do as well - all three of them were wonderfully patient and for this I am very grateful. 

As most know, I am much more partial to the vertical world than the hiking-long-distances-using-my-feet-and-carrying-weight world, so I knew the trip would be a challenge. Turns out it both was easier and more difficult than I’d imagined. The days were long and the endurance demands were high but the walking itself was generally much easier than I expected. A few of the bests and worsts… 

Best moment: Cresting the first ridge and feeling on top of the world

Made it to the top! Haha just kidding ;) But it felt like it! Photo credit: Jazmine Lowther
Ridge shot!
From whence we came
mmmmm views

Worst moment: Skidding our way down the steep choss side of Mount De Wind on the way to our night 2 camp. 

Most hurting: The last few hours of day 3. We’d summited three glorious peaks, but then coming down the valley towards camps at the end of a 13.5 hour day was painful. 

Taking those boots off though was an AMAZING moment!

Scariest difficult moment: Fording the Hay River. I seriously thought I might be swept away by the force of the water! 

Panic!! Photo credit: Jesse Archer

Worst Planning: Not packing enough food for dinners… thanks Jazzy for saving me here!

Best Planning: Bringing my hiking poles 

I had zero knee troubles! Photo credit: Jazmine Lowther

Most favourite parts of mountain climbing: the very small sections of low 5th class scrambling and downclimbing the exposed slabs 

Jesse testing the bum-first-crab-walk method on some slab, right before we belayed down our packs

Least favourite parts of mountain climbing: That good ol’ Canadian Rockies choss…. Especially when it’s the only option on a narrow ridge

Traversing a chossy ridge!
Choss...
Route finding was sometimes somewhat tricky!

Favourite camping spot: The alpine meadow in the valley between Mount Hunter and Mount Harvey on night 2 

Meadow and sunset beams <3

***
So many valleys, passes, ridges, mountains, forest, and creeks. AND we made it back to the car on the final morning with plenty of time for the seven hour drive back to Lac La Biche, complete with a Boston Pizza lunch stop on the way! A few more photos, as I just can't resist...

Purple saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia)
Leaving the rugged mountains for some gentler slopes and valleys
Lichens!
Elk melt on the way up Mount Hunter
Possible Oxytropis sp. ?? or maybe Astragalus sp. ?? Anybody?
Forever mountains <3
Lunch at Carson Creek pass before heading up to the first ridge.
This, of course, would be the cover of our first album if we had one.


Boys are tuckered out!

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Seventeen Months

Just over one month ago we returned home after more than 17 months of van living on our climbing road trip around North America.

When we first got back from the road trip we caught ourselves saying things like "oh, we could get ice cream because we have a freezer!" or, "isn't it great to shower?" or, "standing upright is lovely" in the presence of normal folk. People would shoot us odd looks and we would stumble over our words trying to explain ourselves. It was an abrupt transition for us when our trip came to an end, one that we are slowly adjusting to for now.

It is hard to explain and justify the passion for rock climbing, the desire to live out of your vehicle, or the will to be away from stability for so long to those not already embracing this lifestyle. There are several comments and questions we heard over and over again before, during, and after our trip. Here are a few of the common ones:

1. "Don't you get bored of climbing?"  ... NEVER!

This trip was incredible for our climbing. We climbed so many different styles, on so many different rock types, in so many different destinations. Each place we visited had its own flavour, uniqueness, community and culture. We overcame mental barriers, we dealt with injuries, and we came out stronger and braver on the other end.

Graham beefed up his climbing resume adding multiple V10 sends and a couple V11s, and pushing his redpoint limit to 5.13d. He began onsighting 5.13a and flashing V8/9. In less than 9 months, Kim went from having sent half a dozen 5.12as to redpointing 5.13c. She added over 100 routes 5.12 or above, and bumped her bouldering limit from V5 to V9.

Niagara Glen, Ontario. September 2015
"Beefcake" (V10) in Bishop, California. December 2014
"High Plains Drifter" (V7) in Bishop, California. February 2016
"Pucker" (5.13c) in St George, Utah. March 2016
"Monster Skank" (5.13b) in Red Rocks, Nevada. March 2015
"Easy Rider" (5.13a) in Red River Gorge, Kentucky. November 2015. Photo credit: Marcin Szymelfenig
Acephale crag in the Bow Valley, Alberta. July 2015
"Caustic" (5.11b) in Red Rocks, Nevada. February 2015. Photo credit: Tyler Audette

2. "You'll find out how well you really get along after living in that van" ... turns out we still get along great!

We love the simplicity of our van home. Living in such a small space teaches patience, tolerance, and acceptance. We became even more grateful of each other and our relationship, and our appreciation for non-material living deepened. Oh, and three days after we returned home from the road, we got engaged!
We're getting hitched!

3. "How can you afford this trip?" ... hard work, determination, sacrifice, and a lot of saving.

We planned the trip over the course of four years, budgeting to spend $20,000. When you think about it, between two people this only involves setting aside $2500 a year, or a little over $200 each month. The CAN-USA exchange rate hurt us quite a bit, and in reality, after adding every single penny we spent, we ended up dropping $26,331.22. We kept VERY good track of our budget, helping us to keep pretty close to it. We sacrificed a lot of luxuries, but we could have sacrificed even more. For those interested in where-the-money-goes when you're on a long road trip, we'll be posting a breakdown of our budget soon!


Prepping lunch every day in our modest kitchen
Who needs warm coffee shops when you can have this?!

4. "When are you going to settle down?" ... maybe never?

We measure our worth by relationships and experiences. By sharing things with others. By living below our means and with an open mind. Not by a job title or profession. Not by "fitting the norm". We will likely settle down eventually, but in our own unique way. In a way that honours adventure, free spirit, travel, friendships, and family. 

Also, it's tough to think about settling, when for the past year and a half our home has looked like this:

Storm rolling in to the Buttermilks in Bishop, California
The Beaver Wall at Mt Lemmon in Tuscon, Arizona
The clouds put on a show in Joe's Valley, outside of Orangeville, Utah
Our humble abode <3

5. "When are you going to find a job" ... Well, we're back in jobs now!

Graham has returned to the service centre at MEC, and Kim is off in Alberta for the summer working for the Alberta Biodiversity Monitoring Institute. We'll be reuniting in Vancouver in September, typing the knot in October, and then seeing where the future takes us from there.


Kim on a field day with ABMI. Photo credit: Jazmine Lowther

Our roadtrip was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that we are hoping will be much more than once-in-a-lifetime. We have made friends from all over the continent and the world. We have learned so much more about our sport, each other, and our values in this life. The trip was the best decision we ever made.


Our "commune" from Spring 2015
Some of the rad girls from the Flash Foxy festival in February 2016
Climbing family! Photo credit: Dan Beland
Another day out, here in Rocktown, Georgia. December 2015. Photo credit: Marc Bourguignon