Disappearing Evening Sun

As we welcome in November, we sadly wave good-bye to the beloved evening light that keeps us on the rock just that little bit longer. We spent as much time as possible throughout the dry month of October between Squamish and Horne Lake. With our new house being so close to the Iron Worker’s bridge, we can make it from our doorstep to Murrin Park in a mere 40 minutes.  The short commute made it worthwhile to head up after work even with reduced day length compared to summer. Graham has been working Vultures Circling (5.13b) and on October 23^rd, despite many wet hand and footholds, walked away with the send!

The invisible footholds at the base of Vultures Circling

Traversing into the first rest on Vultures Circling

Vultures Circling upper rest

Moving into the upper crux, Vultures Circling

In addition to Squamish climbing, we have made several trips to Horne Lake this fall. On November 3^rd, we celebrated by each taking home some hard-earned sends. After three days of working it, I was stoked to send Quarter Century Girl (5.12a). This is my first 5.12 on the island, and I was determined to send before my next birthday so I could be a quarter century girl on Quarter Century Girl. Graham cruised his way throughout a graceful redpoint of Fast Cat (5.13c), his second 13c at Horne. To finish the day off, I finally battled my way through a redpoint burn on You Enjoy Myself (5.11a), my first send in the amphitheater.  This is commonly referred to as “the warm-up” route, but the steep climbing is very difficult for me and not my style at all. Needless to say, I was thrilled, particularly since I have been working this route on and off since 2009.

Back in Squamish, Graham and I also made our first trip to Paradise Valley last week for some bouldering. The climbing here is FANTASTIC, I can’t believe we hadn’t been there before. Graham had a brilliant day, climbing over 50 points, including two V7s, one of which was a flash (Little Dragon). I flashed my first ever V4, and was very pleased to also send Tai Fighter (V4) on my 3^rd go.

Kim getting ready to be dynamic on a V2

Airborne!

With the February Red Rocks trip on the horizon and the knowledge that we are less than a year (pending Graham’s knee surgery) from our big trip, we have decided to spend the winter months training hard. In addition, we have set some pretty ambitious goals for ourselves, which should be fun to try and achieve.

Kim’s goals:

#1. Bring my bouldering tally in Squamish to 100 problems before the end of winter (currently at 66)

#2. Climb ten 5.12s before we leave on our year-long trip

Graham’s goals:

#1.  Try some harder boulders. He would like to send a V10 before the trip

#2.  Double the number of 5.13s that he has currently (12) sent.

Wish us luck! <3

The days of summer

It has been a whirlwind of activity for us this summer, both in climbing and otherwise. I spent 85 days in the field again near Vanderhoof, BC, collecting bird, beetle, and vegetation data for my Master’s research. It was a fantastic summer, however unfortunately the flat interior forests offer no opportunity for rock climbing.

Graham spent the summer in Vancouver, and had high hopes for a strong climbing season. In an unfortunate twist of fate, however, he ended up with a torn meniscus in each knee, leading to a halt in all of his usual activities. It was difficult to cope with the ruling of “no climbing”, and he did sneak in a few sweet sends, such as his first true onsight V7 (Styx in Squamish). To make matters worse, his double injury went mis-diagnosed for 5 weeks, after which opinions from several doctors remained inconclusive. While waiting patiently on the 18 month MRI waitlist, Graham got a call in mid-August to let him know there had been an opening for an MRI the next day. We are sooo lucky and happy we got that call, because the MRI results finally confirmed a complex tear. The fantastic doctors at Rebalance in Victoria have now put Graham on the waitlist for a bilateral arthroscopic surgery. Both knees at once. Can’t wait! And on the brightest side of all, Graham has been given the go-ahead green light to continue climbing in the meantime! Apparently he can’t worsen the injury, so it is simply a matter of pain management and listening to one’s body.

In an attempt to distract ourselves from the lack of climbing we have been working on crafts and home preserves. Drying food and canning fruit is getting us excited for the fall:

In early September we built a coat and key hanger with my dad from a beautiful piece of pine-beetle and fire affected wood that I collected this summer.

We have also just moved into our new home, and have been working hard to organize and settle in. The place is in a beautiful 100 year old house, which also happens to be conveniently located right near the Second Narrow’s bridge – fall Squamish climbing here we come! Although the weather hasn’t been too promising so far, we have made a couple trips to beloved Squamish so far this month. A huge highlight for me, was that I (finally!!) sent my first Squamish V4! Atlas, in the Grand Wall Boulders.

The rains are now arriving and threatening to hold us back on our projects (Graham: Vultures Circling  and Free Will; Kim: Mrs. Negative), but we are still excited for a stormy wet fall, and will make the most of it while we can.

All for now!

Oregon in April - Smith Rock, baby!

This is a bit late for a trip report, but better late than never!

We had an early morning start, and Yannick, Dan, Marc, Kim and I piled into two cars and headed South. We arrived with plenty of sun to set up camp and eat some dinner.

We awoke on day 1 to rain...sigh, but happily spent the rainy morning lounging at the local climbing shop, Redpoint, to pass some time. By noon, the weather had cleared and the rock was dry (we love deserts!). After warming up at Morning Glory, I was able to send Doritos (5.12c) on my second go. This climb links the bottom half of Cool Ranch Flavour (5.11b) into the top of Taco Chips (5.13a). I was pretty excited as Taco Chips was one of the climbs I really wanted to do on this trip, so I was happy the top went fairly easily. Kim worked on her project from last year - Cool Ranch Flavour Finish (5.12a) which is an extension of Cool Ranch Flavour.

We started day 2 with another late morning and went back to Redpoint to check out their shoe demo event! That afternoon we went to the Cocaine Gully to stay out of the heat...mostly. Thankfully, when one side of the gully goes into sun, the other is in the shade! Kim and Marc worked on Bloodshot (5.11b) while Yannick tried Crack Babies (5.12b), a climb Dan and I did in February. After a bit of work he was able to send a day or two later. I onsighted Quest to Fire (5.12a). We went back down to Morning Glory in the evening and I gave Taco Chips a try. I surprised myself by making it through the bottom (and supposedly harder) crux first try but fell right near the end of the upper crux. Unfortunately, I must have crimped a wee bit too hard on some small hold and got a massive blood blister on the tip of my left index finger. Sigh...

Dan warming up on Deep Impact (5.10c)

Kim on Deep Impact

Dan working out the moves on Quest to Fire (5.12a)

Marc on Bloodshot (5.11b)

Yannick working Quest to Fire (5.12a)

I took it easy the next day due to the blood blister. I had to continually pop it every hour or so to relieve the pressure that kept building up. It was a bit of a nuisance as it would feel good for about 10 minutes when it was first drained, then the hole would seal up and I couldn't touch anything until it was popped again. Everyone ended up doing easier climbs to rest up a bit...for the most part... and I belayed and hung out for the day.

Marc sending Heresy (5.11c)

Dan working Rude Boys (5.13b)

The following day we took as a full rest day. I had contacted Metolius earlier in the week and Vanessa, one of their customer service reps, hooked us up with a tour. 

It was super cool to see how they make everything completely from scratch. Anything aluminum is made in with CNC machines and assembled in house. They also sew all their slings and such their as well, so we got to see the whole assembly line. 

So many cam lobes!

Partially made cams in the assembly process

Cutting out the foam for harnesses

Broken biners after strength testing

Testing facility

Cams, cams everywhere

After the Metolius tour, we headed further into Bend to the Deschutes Brewery for another tour!

'Small' vat (is that the right word?) of beer

Big vat of beer! They said a highway was shut down in order to ship this from California (I think Cali..)

Heaps of hops

Some Smith Rock inspired beer artwork

After spending some much needed rest time drinking, we headed to the last stop of the day, the Sun Mountain Epic Fun Time Centre (that wasn't its' actual name, but that's what we called it).

Passing some time playing some DDR

Dan crushing some Guitar Hero

Cory and Kirsten arrived very early the next day (3am) so we met up with them in the morning. Kim and Marc worked their project Cool Ranch Flavour Finish (5.12a) a bit, coming painfully close to sending on each of their first tries of the day. On her second go, Kim was able to send! Her second 5.12a tick! Unfortunately, I had walked into the nearby Aggro Gully to finish warming up and missed the send :( I'm still super stoked for her though! 

We went to the Dihedrals after, seeking shade as it was a scorcher. Kirsten got her first taste of Smith Rock and was loving it! 

A next highlight for me was working out some alternative beta on Taco Chips (5.13a), which led to a send on my second go of the day, 4th try overall. 

Yannick sending Latin Lover 5.12a

Oh hi!

Cory on Latin Lover

Dan cruising Middle Aged Vandal 5.11c

Describing the beta

Kirsten LOVING Smith!

Graham just before the first crux on Taco Chips 5.13a

Graham resting after the first crux

Graham sending Taco Chips

Further highlights for us included my send of Aggro Monkey (5.13b) on my 3rd go, and Darkness at Noon (5.13a) also on my 3rd go. I was pretty stoked about both of those. 

Kim worked on a few more projects, trying in particular to focus on her lead head. After several lead attempts on Blasphemy (5.11a), she went for the TR send and set a goal for the lead send on our next trip here. 

All in all a good trip, and we can't wait to head back again. 

Springtime = Best Time!

Spring is possibly my favourite time of year for many reasons:

- My birthday falls in Spring (I turned 25 – and survived!);

- Classes wrap up in Spring (I defended my Master’s proposal last week and am now officially an MSc candidate!);

- Temperatures and conditions shape up for GREAT climbing (Graham and I leave for Smith Rock in two days!!);

- Birds undertake their long migration journeys towards breeding territories!!

I was out at Iona Bird Observatory with Wild Research this morning (5:30am start – when I return in two weeks, it’ll be a 4:45am start!) to volunteer for their six week bird migration banding program. As a first timer I was mostly watching and learning  - there is so much to take in!

I got to see my FIRST Common Yellowthroat:

As well as an adorable Lincoln’s Sparrow and Hermit Thrush.

I learned a bit about aging birds based on plumage, as is being done with this American Robin:

I also learned “Bander’s Grip”, the first and safest bird handling technique, and got to hold an American Goldfinch:

...a Ruby-crowned Kinglet:

...and a Spotted Towhee:

It’s incredible the detail you can see on birds this close.

Off to Oregon now – more awesome bird and climbing updates to come!!